Recently, my husband and I made our first visit to your land, and I wanted to send a quick note to extend our thanks for a lovely visit. We came on a sort of heritage tour — since both of my parents and his father all have roots in Germany, we wanted to come see where our forefathers and mothers lived, to touch the soil, to eat the food, to imagine what life might’ve been like for them.
We made our first home base Hamburg because of its proximity to Grabau, which is where my husband’s great grandfather would have grown up on a farm. When we landed at the airport, we easily found a taxi and found ourselves winding our way through a sprawling modern city, rich with many familiar retailers nestled beside others that were, dare I say, foreign. Exhausted from a flight that had left Detroit, touched down in London and then Copenhagen before finally alighting in Hamburg, we mostly just stared out the windows, trusting our driver to drop us at the hotel that was expecting us.
It wasn’t long before we found ourselves walking into a small but clean and recently updated establishment. The desk clerk found our reservation, told us where to go for breakfast in the morning, and advised us of a few places we might find something to eat for dinner. We stumbled to our rooms, freshened just a bit, then used Google maps to locate a shawarma restaurant just a couple of blocks away. We quickly outed ourselves as Americans when ordering– mostly pointing and nodding to the restauranteur who didn’t speak English– and then enjoyed a huge plate of food.
Full and exhausted, we made our way back to our room and dropped off to sleep.
Now, I won’t go blow by blow through our six days in Germany, but I do want to remark on some things that we noticed.
First of all, almost everyone we encountered spoke at least a little English and demonstrated a willingness to help — the hotel clerk who advised us where to get an outlet adapter when the one we brought didn’t work; the rental car agent who displayed curiosity about our quest and switched the car’s display into English for us; the gentleman in Grabau who, spotting someone he didn’t recognize, pulled over and chatted with us as we walked through the town; the server in Berlin who hung onto my passport that I left behind and delightedly returned it to me when we came panicking back to find it; and the waiter in Nuremberg who tried to tell us that the German meal we were ordering was an enormous amount of food and that we likely wouldn’t finish it.

Even those who didn’t speak English were eager to engage — the inn owner, Mr. Vogt, in Unterschwaningen, the ancestral home of my father’s family, who, through Google translate, shared that his family had run the inn, the only one in town for the past two hundred years, the waitress in a cafe who was willing to get us some oat milk once she knew (again, thanks to Google translate) what we were talking about.
We also noticed the bikes! While it was around 40-50 degrees Fahrenheit most days that we were with you, countless folks made their way through the cities and even the countryside on bicycles. From the northern seaside city of Kiel to the resort town Baden-Baden in the Black Forest of southwest Germany, folks dressed for the weather, stayed in the bike lanes (which were very consistently everywhere), and pedaled their way from place to place. Some were toting children, some were making deliveries, some were dressed in work wear, most were bundled up with coats, hats, helmets, gloves, and often glasses.
Perhaps because so many folks traveled by bicycle, and because of the storied German efficiency and engineering, the roads were virtually flawless! Well-marked and exceptionally well-maintained, these roads made it quite easy for two folks who have done very little international traveling to find our way in and around Hamburg, Nuremberg, and the surrounding towns and countryside.
Now let’s talk about the food. Where do I start? First of all, I have never, and I mean NEVER, been so excited to eat a hotel breakfast. In both hotels in which we stayed, the morning spread was remarkable — eggs, bacon, pastries, yes, but also, sliced meats and cheese, fresh fruit, cereal with nuts, seeds, and dried fruits for toppings, potatoes, fresh vegetables, and I could spend a whole paragraph on the coffee, tea, juice, and milk choices. We lingered each morning, savoring the experience. And then — then! — we found cafe after cafe and restaurant after restaurant that also did not disappoint. Every cuisine from the previously mentioned shawarma to curry to hamburgers with sweet potato fries to freshly made soups to the way too enormous traditional German meat-filled meal was outstanding. And I haven’t even mentioned the sandwiches.

Now, you’ve got to understand that we regularly enjoy a gluten-free and dairy-free diet, but Germany, everywhere we turned was a carb! We couldn’t help ourselves. We had a rhubarb pastry in a small town near Grabau, lebkuchen in Nuremberg, a cherry crumble bar on the way to Baden-Baden, and soup with fresh bread in Berlin. In America, these things, at least for us, are rare treats, but in Germany, they became a daily requirement. But let me get to the sandwiches.

Everywhere we went in Germany — on trains, in cities, in the countryside, in shops — people of all ages were carrying small open bags from which they would inevitably pull enormous sandwiches that they would eat as they stood on the train platform, walking down the street, or riding on a bike. Even toddlers in strollers were eating enormous sandwiches! We obviously had to throw caution fully to the wind and give it a try, so when we saw the Kolb Pretzel company selling pretzel sandwiches, we purchased one, had them slice it in half, and enjoyed it as we walked through a Saturday morning market. Exquisite!
I’m starting to ramble on now, so let me return to the purpose of our visit. We wanted to visit the ancestral homes of our families — the Kolbs, the Meyers, the Rathjes — and we did! As we toured the small farm towns and small cities that our forefathers and mothers used to live in, we tried to imagine them there under the same castle we were exploring, worshiping in the church where we were standing, walking the same path we were on, taking in the beautiful pastoral scenes, and living their lives. Most remarkable to us was the thought of how bold and brave they were, most of them during the mid to late 1800s, to leave what they knew, the beautiful familiar, and to venture out — how? on foot? by train? on horseback or carriage? and certainly, undoubtedly via a long ship voyage — to a land they had never seen and could only imagine based on the words they had read or heard from others who had gone before them. What made them leave? A family issue? A government or political demand they could not abide? A dream for something different?

We know some of these answers because of those who have done the research — that’s how we knew to go to Grabau, and Kiel, and Unterschwanigen, and Baden-Baden — but our imaginations and our visit made us wonder even more.
And Germany, I can’t leave this message without saying that we felt your strength and your courage, too! We saw reminders of world wars, monuments to lives lost, evidence of destruction, and an intentional message of resiliency and a firm determination to not forget the past but to forge a different present and future. We saw that not just in Berlin, but everywhere we went — in the ashes displayed at the restored St. Lorenz church in Nuremberg, in the memorials at Kiel, in the words of the gentleman at Grabau who told us that most of the Germans left that village in the wake of World War II. Its current inhabitants, he said, are descendants of the Polish folks who settled there once the dust was settling.

Germany, you were a fine host. Thank you for accommodating us, for preserving the past for us, for showing us what it looks like to rebuild and move forward. I can only hope that one day we will be back, but regardless, we carry part of you with us, and we might just be packing a sandwich or two!
Tschuss!
In [God] our ancestors put their trust; they trusted and [He] delivered them. Psalm 22:4




